Monday, May 29, 2006

Desert Light

This is the most beautiful clothesline of clothing ever seen. The colors are vibrant in the warm, soft morning light of the Northern Sahara. It is impossible not to love it. Once could stay for months, watching the shifts of light and the spectacular colors they produce.

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Tuesday, May 16, 2006

Tunisia Prologue

Just back from a week in the North Africa nation of Tunisia, of which Tunis (formerly Carthage) is the main stem. Tunis is a republic, more or less. Ben Ali has been the leader since 1987, when he, as Prime Minister, forced the republic's founder, Borgaiba, to step down due to failing faculties. My friend calls it Coup by Doctors. There is no real competition - Ben Ali runs and wins with near unanimity every five years. The good news is that he, like his predecessor, is interested in modernization. Not liberalism per se. He's a bit less idealistic than Borgaiba, who promoted universal suffragism, outlawed polygamy, etc. But he seems to be a decent and extremely photogenic guy. Let's just say his picture is everywhere.

The country was a French protectorate since 1955. Its tourists mainly are French speaking, and its tourist industry is French-Arab bilingual. It has been Arab, more or less, since the 11th century, when the Arabs expanded their realm into Spain by way of North Africa. The population is Arab and the national religion - right the first time. But these are no fire-breathing Muslims. Nothing radical was apparent. Religious but not fundamentalist.

Tunis is on the Meditteranean coast and reflects that multi-national culture and style. Tozeur, Tamerza, Duoz are southern cities, bordering or in the Sahara, and they are more Arab in culture and appearance. The camels are a red flag. Djerba, a southern coastal island, was my point of departure. Djerba is Arab but quite cosmopolitan, as one would expect. It is reputed to haves the oldest established permanent (non-floating) Sephardic synagogue in the world, and it is cool. The synagogue is well-treated and well-guarded. The guards would not let me in until I avowed that I am Jewish. No further proof, fortunately, was required.

Speaking of camels, and I will be, they are very well domesticated, except for the occasional nip of a rider's leg or hand. They walk so graciously. Their feet seem to pad along the sand. And they are quite photogenic, as you will see.

Time to sneak up on my jet lag.
Salaam